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Restaurant Show Suggestions - Jaime’s Mexican Restaurant

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September 11, 2015
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A block west of Sheridan Boulevard just south of Jewell sits a small, squat building that has been the home of more failed restaurants than I can remember. So many of them, that most of them closed before I was even able to pay them a visit. Within the last few weeks, the space reopened as Jaime’s Mexican Restaurant. Call him crazy or reckless, but the new owner, Jaime Navarro, has many years of restaurant experience behind him and, if anybody can make this spot profitable, it’s him.

One of the things that’s always worked against this site is that, even though it’s a free-standing building with a huge parking lot, you can’t see it from either Sheridan or Jewell. You actually have to turn south from Jewell onto Depew. So, the only thing that’s going to allow a restaurant to survive at this location is to be good enough that the word spreads through the area. And so far, that’s exactly what’s been happening.  

Another thing that hasn’t helped is that none of the previous owners really put the money into creating the warm and inviting kind of ambiance that makes you want to return. But Navarro has added colorful, oversized booths to the periphery of the room, along with a collection of tables that can be pushed together to accommodate any size party. The room itself is painted a simple white with minimal wall hangings,  and sports a large, attractive bar in one corner.  

Navarro hails from Colima, on the western coast of Mexico, and his forte has always been the food from his home state. So, while the dishes may have familiar names, many of them have subtle differences to them. Plus, coming from a part of Mexico with abundant seafood, he’s always been good at serving up intriguing dishes from the sea.

Breakfast is an all-day affair at Jaime’s, and you’ll find the usual lineup of breakfast burritos, chilaquiles, and Mexican egg dishes of every stripe. Beyond that there are fajitas, burritos, enchiladas and tacos, including a tongue taco, which we’ve had requests for on The Restaurant Show. But the highlight of the menu has to be the seafood section, which includes an outstanding ceviche, and more shrimp dishes than you can count.

One of his offerings is the mariscada, which is an assortment of seafood dishes presented on an overflowing platter, and served family style. Though it’s offered in both a “mini” and “full” version, it can be prepared for any size party. We chose the “mini” and received enough more food than we could eat. Luckily the left-overs travel well. The platter covered a good part of the table, and was loaded with garlic-shrimp, spicy Shrimp Diabla, and a third shrimp dish accompanied by a fruit sauce. Also on the platter was a Filete Relleno—a white fish stuffed with shrimp and octopus, which was simply incredible. Sides included rice and a tasty Mexican-style cole slaw.

Of course, no Mexican restaurant would be complete without margaritas and a complete assortment of beers, both domestic and Mexican.

Only time will tell whether this is the restaurant that will finally break the bad luck that has dogged this location, but if the number of people who’ve already become regulars is any indication, Jaime’s is off to a good start.

Jaime’s Mexican Restaurant

1910 S. Depew St. (just south of Jewell, one block west of Sheridan Blvd.)

Denver, CO

303-989-8300

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